What Do You Mean They Have Genitals for their Tombstones?

- in Travel Stories

The journey had a strange beginning. I was surprised by the road. I realized that hitchhiking is a must in this country because these people are amazing! I mean is it even possible for your FIRST hitchhike to just take you straight to Gonbad Kavus?! 487 kilometers man! I mean the driver even didn’t have a plan to go there!

Let’s get back to where we were, on the quiet road to the mysterious cemetery. The rain drops were in the air, touching our face as we walked and freshened us. The beauty of the sights around enchanted us and we were caught in the moment.


There were no cars to pick us up. No one passed. We picked a spot and sat down to take a break and eat something when suddenly we saw Pegah and Ramin coming out of nowhere. We jumped in the road and waved our hand. They were a cool couple, the same age as us. They were traveling all around Iran with their own car. This was their whole Norouz holidays plan. Together we arrived at the cemetery. It was all fogs around, creating an even more mysterious atmosphere. And then, there they was… The strange tombstones.

Women’s tombstones are similar to feminine organs, while men’s are… well you can notice.


Well, I guess these tombstone scales are correspondent to the genitals of the guy lying in the grave! Or maybe to their social status. Who knows!

There was a thick fog covering the cemetery. It was as if the earth was ashamed to show us the grave stones. The natives told us a bunch of stories about the people that lived there thousands of years ago which were pretty interesting. The stories were different (if I write them down this post will take forever to finish). I was in love with the stories behind these stones.

We finally let go of Khalid Nabi and went back to Gonbad with Pegah and Ramin and then we got separated from them. The days was coming to an end and the people in Gonbad Kavus were heading home. Mahzand and I wanted to go to the park and set up a tent to spend the night there. We stood by the side of the road and very soon a young man that was a butcher and was about 30 years old picked us up. To be honest he had this look that made me feel like I can’t trust him. Because his words sounded racist and I can never tolerate such things. It brings me down. So when he offered us to spend the night at a place he owned we declined although the weather was cold and humid.

Eventually he got us to the park and waited until we found a good place to put up our tent. We didn’t really mind staying in his warm car because out there, everything was dark and we were all alone. We thanked him and he left. After about 15 minutes of us putting up our tent we saw a figure with something unknown in its hand coming towards us. The closer it got, the better we could recognize him. It was Hossein. He had come here to give us a blanket. “It’s cold out here.” He said. “Take this.” And then he just left. Mahzad and I were shocked. We had no address or phone number whatsoever. “How can we give this back to you!?” I said. Loud enough for him to hear. As he was walking away he turned around, smiled at us and just waved his hand without uttering a single word and walked away.

It was just like in the movies. Mind blowing really. It just made me completely second guess my judgment and try to make my mind wider. It’s saying that when one travels, when he returns he is a changed man. And I think it’s because of these sort of thing! Now that we’ve talked about movies I should tell you guys about the one with the doctor. I was really starting to believe I was in a movie!

About the author

Ershad Nikkhah
I'm Ershad, 27, from Iran. I'm the enemy of "you cannot hitchhike in Iran." I'm gonna not only prove that statement wrong, but also show you guys that this country is the paradise for hitchhikers, adventure travelers, and those who want to deep dive into the unknown and drench themselves into untouched cultures. In this blog I'm gonna let you in on the experiences that Lonely Planet missed in Iran.

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